Milan Fashion Week: Fendi autumn winter 2023-2024 collection

For Autumn/Winter 2023-2024, Kim Jones explores classicism and elegance through the lens of subtle subversion. Drawing directly upon the wardrobe of Delfina Delettrez Fendi – how she wears her FENDI archive with an instinctive sense of self-expression – here is a collection which plays with binaries: the exploration and elevation of deconstruction; the interpolation of gendered archetypes; the disturbance of ladylike sophistication. The illusion of insouciance is elegantly constructed, and pieces are designed to be worn every which way.

Masculine tailoring and traditional fabrics are twisted into feminine forms, while elements of utilitarianism appear throughout: boilersuits, aprons, uniforms. Lace is lacquered and layered; flashes of fetishism appear through slips of lingerie peeking through, or thigh-high lace-up boots. A clean-cut mac falls open to flash its sequined lining; bias-cut draped dresses or Persian lamb bibs appear with harnessed straps.

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